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7 Best Things About Visiting Antarctica
Adelie penguin standing on ice in Antarctica.
ADELIE PENGUIN (PHOTO CREDIT: TERESA OTTO)
DESTINATIONS ANTARCTICA AND ARCTIC
TERESA OTTO
SEP.27.2021
I never thought much about going to Antarctica. It wasn’t a bucket-list trip until I was watching a segment on photographing icebergs on a program called Tales by Light. I mentioned the program to a fellow photographer at work the next day. Call it destiny — her upcoming cruise to Antarctica had one remaining spot open and it was geared toward photographers. You just can’t ignore signs like that from the universe, so I plunked down a hefty deposit and secured my spot on the trip.
Before I dive into the best things about visiting Antarctica, let me give you a range of options for your tour. Cruises run the gamut, from ones that sail past Antarctica — sometimes referred to as sightseeing cruises — to ones referred to as expeditions. With expeditions, you disembark and set foot on the Antarctica Peninsula (weather permitting), and depending on the itinerary, you may explore the Falkland Islands, South Georgia, and the South Shetland Islands as you make your way to Antarctica.
If you have limited time or are incapacitated by seasickness, consider a combination flight/cruise expedition. You’ll fly to King George Island and cruise around Antarctica’s much calmer waters before flying back to South America.
Different price points, length of trips, ports of call, activities (helicopter tours, kayaking, stand up paddle boarding, camping overnight on Antarctica, etc.), and amenities aboard the ship mean there are a number of cruises to choose from. Since I was jumping on board an already planned trip, all these big decisions had already been made. The 18-day cruise I took with Zegrahm Expeditions was roundtrip from Ushuaia, Argentina. It stopped at the Falkland Islands, South Georgia, the South Shetland Islands, and Antarctica Peninsula. The icebreaker ship carried fewer than 100 guests.
Here are the seven best things I experienced visiting Antarctica:
Three zodiac boats returning from an expedition on the Atlantic Ocean.
ZODIAC BOATS IN THE ATLANTIC OCEAN (PHOTO CREDIT: TERESA OTTO)
1. It’s An Adventure
Unlike a cruise with set ports of call and a schedule to keep, a cruise to Antarctica doesn’t necessarily operate that way. That’s not to say cruise lines don’t have a schedule. They do. It’s just that Mother Nature, a high surf, an entertaining pod of whales, or even the appearance of a double rainbow can change plans.
A cruise of this nature is more of an adventure because of where you’re headed and because of the relatively small number of people. You really can linger if a pod of humpback whales is showing off their tail flukes and breaching close enough for you to see their barnacles.
A cruise to Antarctica is all about experiential travel — soaking in each moment. You may never go back and tour operators know that. They want you to have the fullest experience possible while you’re there.
Close up of the head of a king penguin with black, gray, gold and white feathers and a black and orange beak in Antarctica.
KING PENGUIN (PHOTO CREDIT: TERESA OTTO)
2. The Wildlife
Wildlife is plentiful. It’s hard to imagine life thriving in this inhospitable environment, but it does. Six types of seals and sea lions, seven species of penguins, eight species of whales (with several subtypes of killer whales), and about 40 species of birds other than penguins live on or around Antarctica for at least part of the year.
Many of Antarctica’s animals are migratory, traveling thousands of miles to breed or follow a source of food over the course of a year. Nearly 100 million birds migrate to Antarctica to breed in the spring. Humpback and blue whales migrate to Antarctica for a summer full of feeding on krill — a shrimp-like animal that is less than three inches long.
Antarctica cruises run from the end of October to March. If you have a specific animal you want to see, you’ll want to schedule your expedition around the animal’s stay in South Georgia or Antarctica.
Crabeater seals perched up on some ice in Antarctica.
CRABEATER SEALS (PHOTO CREDIT: TERESA OTTO)
Generally speaking, penguins begin to hatch and elephant seals court on South Georgia in November. Whales migrate in December and seal pups lounge on South Georgia’s beaches in December. In January, the penguin chicks sport very fluffy feathers and stay in their nurseries (called creches), and whales and seals are back in the area to feed. February is best for whale watching and fur seals and their pups are plentiful. If you’re interested in seeing the nesting wandering albatross on South Georgia, February is the month to do so. By March, the penguin chicks are grown and adult penguins are molting — it isn’t the most photogenic month to visit and the temperature is dropping.
If you’re most interested in seeing king penguins, you can see chicks the entire season, especially on South Georgia. King penguins have a 14-month breeding cycle so you’ll see chicks and adolescents with brown down rather than feathers throughout the season. King penguins live in massive colonies (100,000 or more birds).
Pro Tip: Emperor penguins that stand about four feet tall, live farther inland on Antarctica. If seeing these majestic birds is a must, you’ll need to cruise inland via the Weddell Sea or fly in to see them. Very rarely, an emperor may be spotted on the peninsula.
Turquoise and baby blue iceberg floating in Cierva Cove, Antarctica.
CIERVA COVE ICEBERG (PHOTO CREDIT: TERESA OTTO)
3. The Ice
The photographer on the Tales by Light program I watched was most enthusiastic about the ice. Once I saw the colors, textures, and different formations of sea ice and witnessed icebergs calve and roll, I understood why ice would be a highlight.
There are more than a dozen types of sea ice from icebergs to flat pancake ice. As your cruise ship enters icy water, it will slow to a snail’s pace with the crew on the lookout not only for icebergs whose major mass lies below the surface of the water but growlers that are nearly covered with water, difficult to spot, very hard, and extremely hazardous.
Ice is a photographer’s friend in Antarctica because of the variety of colors, shapes, sizes, and textures. Ice can be turquoise blue to steel gray. Many icebergs have windows or keyholes in them adding interest. I took as many photos of ice as I did wildlife.
If your greatest interest lies in photographing ice and the landscapes, plan to travel in January or February since there will be soft light at dawn and dusk. On the summer solstice in December, the sun is visible for 24 hours.
Pro Tip: With the snow, ice, and nonstop sunshine, consider using a polarizing filter for your landscape photography.
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4. Stepping Foot On The 7th Continent
As I mentioned, this trip is an adventure with no guarantees. Expedition leaders make every attempt to have you set foot on the 7th continent – typically on Antarctica Peninsula.
Pro Tip: According to regulations, set forth by the International Association of Antarctica Tour Operators, no more than 100 people can be onshore at a time. Keep this in mind when you’re researching cruise ships. If you’re traveling with more than 100 passengers, your time onshore will be reduced.
Elephant Island, Antarctica.
ELEPHANT ISLAND (PHOTO CREDIT: TERESA OTTO)
5. You’ll Marvel At The Tenacity Of Polar Explorers
You’re likely to have a historian on board to give you lectures on the trials and triumphs of the polar explorers. As you learn about their efforts to reach the South Pole without any of the advantages we have today, you’ll gain an appreciation for their achievements — whether they succeeded or failed in their attempts.
You’ll cruise by and perhaps land on Elephant Island — a small, rocky, inhabitable island where Sir Ernest Shackleford’s men stayed for more than four months awaiting their rescue after their ship was crushed by ice in the Weddell Sea.
If your cruise takes you to the former whaling station at Grytviken on South Georgia, you’ll see Shackleton’s grave.
6. You’ll Learn A Lot
When the ship is underway, whether, for several hours or several days (between South America and Antarctica), the expedition leaders will give lectures on everything from photography, to bird and whale watching, to geology. Expedition leaders have varied backgrounds and are often expert naturalists or wildlife biologists.
As an added bonus, you’ll dine with the expedition leaders and any guest lecturers on board. It gives you a chance to learn even more about Antarctica or their fields of study.
Ship docked at Paradise Bay, Antarctica.
PARADISE BAY (PHOTO CREDIT: TERESA OTTO)
7. You Can Take A Polar Plunge
A few hardy souls earned certificates for jumping into Paradise Bay’s freezing water during the polar plunge. The crew attached safety straps to pluck them out of the water if needed and the ship’s doctor attended. If you’re brave enough to take the dip, you deserve the certificate and the bragging rights.
Pro Tip: This is truly a trip of a lifetime. As a photographer, I tend to get caught up taking pictures. Put your camera away once in a while and soak up the beauty, listen to the ice sizzle and crackle, watch the antics of the penguins, and feel the ripples under your zodiac boat after a whale breaches. Savor the moments.
Arctic and Antarctic travel is an incredible experience, but takes careful planning:
Visiting The Arctic Circle Responsibly: 7 Things To Know
How To Travel To Antarctica
I Took A Solo Trip To Antarctica And It Was Amazing
DESTINATIONS ANTARCTICA AND ARCTIC
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TERESA OTTO
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Teresa Otto, a retired pediatric anesthesiologist, now photographs and writes about her travels. When she’s not traveling the world, she serves as a waitress and housekeeper for two rescued cats and a dog in The Woodlands, Texas. Follow her travels on Instagram and on her personal website.
FUR SEAL ON SOUTH GEORGIA (PHOTO CREDIT: TERESA OTTO)
TERESA OTTO
SEP.17.2021
This is truly a trip of a lifetime. And while it isn’t as rigorous as a mountaineering expedition or a sailing vacation in which you’re part of the crew, it isn’t your typical cruise with endless buffets and umbrella drinks by the deck pool.
A cruise to Antarctica is an expedition, an exploration of a remote, untamed continent miles away from civilization. And miles away from a hospital. There are many adages about planning ahead. I first learned the six “P’s” in the Army: “Prior planning prevents p-ss poor performance.” It was a favorite in the operating room, too, where it served to remind the physicians, nurses, and technicians entrusted with caring for patients to check and double-check that everything was in order, and we were ready for the day.
For your upcoming cruise to Antarctica, here are six tips — six “P’s” to help prepare you for your trip of a lifetime.
1. Pay A Visit To Your Healthcare Provider
Before you book a cruise to Antarctica, make an honest assessment of your health. Whether you find you have some medical problems that need to be addressed or you’re perfectly healthy, be sure to visit your healthcare provider before your trip.
If you have chronic illnesses such as heart disease, high blood pressure, a history of strokes, blood clots, diabetes, asthma, sleep apnea, or have had recent surgery, a visit with your primary care provider as soon as you book your trip will give you time to medically get yourself in the best shape possible.
Even if you’re healthy, pay a visit to your provider for medication refills and to discuss your need for medication to prevent or lessen seasickness.
Four South American fur seals on a gray rock. A young seal is in the foreground and Ushuaia Argentina is in the background. Shallow depth of field.
TERESA OTTO
There is a healthcare provider on board the ship to evaluate and treat minor illnesses (gastrointestinal upset, colds, mild infections, etc.) and emergencies like a fur seal bite. But you’ll need to be flown to a hospital in Argentina, Chile, or home if your illness or injury is serious or can’t be treated onboard.
Pro Tip: Depending on the tour operator, your healthcare provider may need to verify and sign a medical history form for the ship’s doctor to review several months before departure.
Group of tourists in blue jackets on a zodiac boat touring around icebergs in Antarctica.
TERESA OTTO
2. Plan For Seasickness
Most expeditions traverse the Drake Passage between Antarctica and South America. This is the roughest stretch of water in the world. I had never had motion sickness before, so I was confident I’d be okay on the 2-day transit across the Drake Passage.
I was very wrong.
It’s much better to prevent seasickness than to try to treat it after the fact. There are both medications and acupressure devices to help prevent or minimize the symptoms. The wise passengers on the cruise wore scopolamine patches before we entered the Drake Passage. This is a prescription-only medication you need to bring with you.
Alternatively, talk to your doctor about over-the-counter Dramamine or Marezine. Your healthcare provider will make sure there are no interactions with medications you already take.
The acupressure wrist bands that apply pressure to the “nausea” point receive mixed reviews in studies. They have no side effects so they seem to be a good adjunct to medication.
If you opt not to take preventative medication (personally, I think this is a huge mistake), ginger lozenges or ginger ale can soothe an upset stomach — provided they stay in your stomach long enough to do anything.
A ship anchored in Paradise Bay Antarctica, photographed from a Zodiak boat. Snow covered mountains surround the bay and small iceberg are seen in the foreground.
TERESA OTTO
3. Practice Balance-Improving Exercises
Most days include excursions on Zodiac boats whether you are viewing icebergs, whales, and seals from the boat or making a landing on South Georgia or Antarctica Peninsula. The crew assists you on and off the Zodiacs, but you’ll make their jobs easier if you have the lower body strength and balance to climb in and out of a moving ship to a bouncing inflatable and vice versa. The greater test of strength and balance occurs on shore landings as you battle the surf when climbing in and getting out of the Zodiac boat.
Trails on South Georgia are unpaved. If you’re interested in seeing more remote penguin colonies or retracing part of Sir Ernest Shackleton’s trek, you may walk several miles on a moderately strenuous hike over hilly terrain. Bring walking poles if needed for balance.
Walking around the ship’s deck or passageways in rough seas requires good balance as well. The ship is equipped with handrails throughout.
Start exercises to improve leg strength and balance as soon as you book your trip. The Mayo Clinic provides an at-home exercise regimen to improve your balance. Joining a tai chi group is particularly helpful as this discipline’s main goal is improving balance in a non-strenuous way.
Pro Tip: If you’re carrying heavy camera gear, hand it to the crew on the Zodiac so you have both hands free. Accept their help getting on and off the ship and Zodiac no matter how good your balance is.
Hiking on Antarctica
TERESA OTTO
4. Pack Appropriately
Having waterproof clothing for cold weather is so important, many tour operators provide both muck boots and jackets. You’ll need to bring waterproof pants to wear over your clothes. Layering is key — choose waterproof outerwear for your Zodiac excursion that you can remove or unzip if it gets warm while you’re hiking in South Georgia.
Depending on how acclimatized you are to cold weather, bring thinner or heavier thermal underwear, shirts, sweaters, or a fleece jacket, pants, sweatpants, or leggings. The tour operator I went with provided boots for us to use, but if you wear an unusual size jacket or shoe or wear orthotics, check to make sure they can accommodate you. If you bring your own, boots need to be slip-on and tall since you’ll be getting out of the Zodiac into shallow water and walking up to the beach.
Check with your tour operator about dinner wear. Cruises to Antarctica tend to be casual without the need for formal dinner wear.
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Bring your prescription and over-the-counter medication in your carry-on bag, with plenty to last the entire trip. If you use a CPAP machine, bring it and the supplies you’ll need with you. You should be able to buy distilled water and any personal items you’ve forgotten in Ushuaia before you embark, time permitting.
The ship I traveled on did not have a gift shop, sundry shop, or laundry services on board. If you need to hand wash your clothes, bring eco-friendly detergent.
Pro Tip: If your cruise departs from Argentina, the weight limit per piece of luggage on the domestic flight you take from Buenos Aires to Ushuaia is about 50 pounds.
The bow of the ship with wood and metal railing and wooden deck in fairly calm seas with fog ahead. Visibility is limited.
TERESA OTTO
5. Purchase Medical Evacuation Insurance
Most tour operators require medical evacuation insurance. It may be included in general trip insurance, but you’ll need to read the contract carefully to determine what exclusions the coverage has. Alternatively, you can purchase stand-alone medical evacuation insurance.
Evacuation from an Antarctic cruise back to Argentina, Chile, or home will make a serious dent in your savings. Cruise experts, Expedition Trips, recommend $200,000 due to Antarctica’s remote location.
Trip cancellation and interruption insurance are separate insurances (although you can add a medical evacuation rider to it) that reimburse the cost of the trip due to covered causes. Read the contract carefully as many causes are excluded.
Pro Tip: Trip cancellation plans require you purchase the insurance within 10 to 21 days of booking the trip for pre-existing medical conditions to be covered.
Author bundled up in waterproof and cold weather gear on a Zodiac boat.
TERESA OTTO
6. Plan Early For Your Unique Circumstances
Planning early to accommodate your unique circumstances is key. I’ve read about a wheelchair-bound woman who cruised to Antarctica and made it onto the continent. All of that took prior planning. That said, reach out to the tour operator you’d like to use before you book your trip if you have limited mobility. Most ships have elevators and several ADA-compliant rooms.
A trip to Antarctica is a feast for the senses, so visual or hearing impairments shouldn’t stop you from traveling here. For the visually impaired who are assisted by a guide dog, dogs were banned in Antarctica in 1992 after being used as sled dogs since the early days of exploration. I don’t believe you can make an exception for a guide dog, although I can’t guarantee that’s the case.
For those with severe food allergies, you should be able to avoid a particular food but there will be a risk of contamination because small ships have one kitchen and can’t accommodate preparing food in a gluten, dairy, or nut-free kitchen for example. A passenger with a severe gluten allergy brought all of her own food for the Antarctica cruise I took.
Pro Tip: Proof of a completed series of COVID-19 vaccines and a recent negative test are required by most tour operators. If you are unvaccinated for personal or medical reasons (allergy to a component of the vaccine, for example), contact the tour company about your eligibility to take the cruise before you book your trip.
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TERESA OTTO
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Teresa Otto, a retired pediatric anesthesiologist, now photographs and writes about her travels. When she’s not traveling the world, she serves as a waitress and housekeeper for two rescued cats and a dog in The Woodlands, Texas. Follow her travels on Instagram and on her personal website.
DESTINATIONSANTARCTICA AND ARCTIC
9 Reasons Why This Tiny Island Should Be Part Of Your Antarctica Adventure
King penguins standing along a river on South Georgia, near Antarctica.
KING PENGUINS STANDING ALONG A RIVER ON SOUTH GEORGIA (PHOTO CREDIT: TERESA OTTO)
DESTINATIONS ANTARCTICA AND ARCTIC
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With cruises departing South America and heading directly to Antarctica, the trip time is shortened but you miss the tiny island of South Georgia. With the even shorter version — flying to King George Island off the Antarctica Peninsula and beginning your expedition from there — you also miss South Georgia. But including South Georgia in your itinerary offers wildlife viewing and on-land experiences that make your expedition to the 7th continent a trip filled with adventure, discovery, and once-in-a-lifetime experiences.
Before we look at the nine reasons why South Georgia should be part of your expedition to Antarctica, let me give you a little bit of information about what to consider when you research your cruise.
In keeping with the 1959 Antarctic Treaty, the continent is shared by countries around the world. Its primary purpose is to provide a place of collaborative scientific research. And 29 of the 54 countries that signed the treaty have research bases in Antarctica.
Tourism to Antarctica is regulated in order to lessen the impact travelers have on the continent. The expedition you choose should be part of the International Association of Antarctic Tour Operators (IAATO). IAATO limits the number of people on any given landing to 100. They also regulate the landings and lengths of the visits so the land and wildlife are not adversely impacted. You’re ferried from ship to shore on a Zodiac boat. If the ship you choose for your expedition has fewer than 100 guests, you’ll be able to participate in every shore landing offered.
Here are the reasons why the tiny island of South Georgia should be part of your Antarctic adventure.
1. You’ll Have Boots On The Ground
Except for typically one trek on the Antarctic Peninsula, the majority of excursions to destinations in Antarctica involve sightseeing from Zodiac boats. With South Georgia, you’ll be exploring on foot, with easy hikes and up-close experiences with wildlife (curious penguins walk up to you).
Short hikes take you to nesting areas or viewing platforms from where you’ll see stunning panoramas of the beaches and the Scotia Sea — a part of the Southern Ocean.
Black-browed albatross chicks on mud nests on South Georgia, near Antarctica.
BLACK-BROWED ALBATROSS CHICKS ON MUD NESTS ON SOUTH GEORGIA (PHOTO CREDIT: TERESA OTTO)
2. You’ll See Albatrosses Take Off
Several types of albatrosses inhabit South Georgia and the small islands that surround it. While viewing wandering albatross from the ship’s deck, the birds look big but not enormous. You’ll get an up-close view of them on Prion Island, just off of South Georgia’s north shore. The wandering albatross’s wingspan is the largest of any living bird on the planet, reaching 11 feet. To get airborne, they have to get a running start. Once they are airborne, they can glide for several hours without flapping their wings. Individual albatrosses have been tracked and found to cover 12,000 miles over the course of the year. They breed on South Georgia and other subantarctic islands beginning each November.
Black-browed albatrosses, with about 7.5-foot wingspans, are found on South Georgia. A huge colony of 400,000 breeding pairs nest on the Falkland Islands but a very respectable colony of 70,000 breeding pairs lives on South Georgia so you’ll see them on your visit. Dove gray downy chicks hatch in their mud nests in late December and early January.
These are just two species of albatrosses on South Georgia. You’re likely to spot more albatross species between South America and Antarctica. You’ll also see petrels, skua, cormorants, kelp gulls, Antarctic terns, and Antarctic prions.
Pro Tip: Albatrosses are considered threatened and near-threatened depending on the species, due to fishing and pollution. To find out more about conservation efforts, visit the Agreement on Albatross and Petrel Conservation’s website.
3. You Might Spot Macaroni Penguins
In 18th century England, “Macaroni” referred to high society, sophisticated young men who toured Europe and adopted a taste for Italian pasta and fine European clothing, including wigs and feathered caps. The verse, “Yankee Doodle came to town riding on a pony. He stuck a feather in his hat and called it macaroni,” was a way the British Army put down the less well-dressed colonials during the Revolutionary War.
Upon seeing penguins on the Falkland Islands with a flamboyant splash of yellow and orange feathers on their heads, English sailors named them Macaronis. Their habitat extends from South America to the Antarctic Peninsula.
The world’s largest population lives on South Georgia but colonies are remote. Your best chance of seeing them is when they enter the water in search of krill — the shrimp-like crustaceans that make the Macaroni’s feathers orange.
A pair of King penguins in a penguin colony in South Georgia near Antarctica.
A PAIR OF KING PENGUINS IN A PENGUIN COLONY IN SOUTH GEORGIA (PHOTO CREDIT: TERESA OTTO)
4. You’ll Experience The Chaos Of A King Penguin Colony
South Georgia is home to some of the largest King penguin colonies in the world, too. A short walk from your Zodiac landing on Salisbury Plain or St. Andrews Bay gets you to King penguin colonies with 100,000 plus breeding pairs that are trumpeting, courting, waddling, and, in the case of the juveniles — whistling — to their parents. The noise is deafening, and the smell of guano is quite strong, nevertheless, the experience is unmatched.
IAATO requires visitors to stay at least five meters (16 feet) away from any wildlife. Curious juveniles, called oakum boys, have brown downy feathers and can be seen throughout the season, as King penguins breed every 14 months. You will also see molting adult penguins that are land-bound and hungry until they replace their feathers and return to the sea to feed.
Along with King penguins, South Georgia is also home to Magellanic, Gentoo, and Chinstrap penguins.
Pro Tip: Sit or stand quietly when you are near a colony. Curious penguins are likely to approach and break the five-meter rule.
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Young elephant seals at Gold Harbour, South Georgia Island, near Antarctica.
YOUNG ELEPHANT SEALS AT GOLD HARBOUR (PHOTO CREDIT: TERESA OTTO)
5. You’ll Marvel At Massive Elephant Seals
Gold Harbour, named for the color of the beach’s golden mountain backdrop at sunrise and sunset, is home to King penguins, fur seals, and massive elephant seals. Adult elephant seal males weigh up to 8,800 pounds and dwarf the females that weigh from 900 to 2,000 pounds. Juvenile male elephant seals practice sparring on the beach, otherwise, the entire lot of elephant seals seem content to sunbathe while they’re on land.
6. You Can Retrace Sir Ernest Shackleton’s Trek
No expedition to Antarctica would be complete without learning about polar explorers that attempted and succeeded at reaching the South Pole. Sir Ernest Shackleton’s attempt failed but he was heralded as a hero. After his ship, the Endurance was crushed by ice in Antarctica’s Weddell Sea, Shackleton and his men made their way to Elephant Island. Shackleton went with a small group of his men to find a ship to get his men home.
Shackleton sailed on a small boat to South Georgia and hiked over snowy, icy, rugged terrain to reach Stromness whaling station in 1916. He returned to rescue all of his men on Elephant Island about 4 months later.
Depending on weather conditions, you can retrace the final part of Shackleton’s trek to Stromness. Stromness became a ship repair yard after whaling ended. Humans left in 1961. Now it’s fur seal city.
Norwegian Lutheran Church, or Norwegian Anglican Church, at Grytviken on South Georgia, near Antarctica.
NORWEGIAN LUTHERAN CHURCH AT GRYTVIKEN (PHOTO CREDIT: TERESA OTTO)
7. You Can Send A Postcard
South Georgia Heritage Trust is based in Grytviken and serves to restore and protect South Georgia. They’ve eradicated rodents that were introduced when Grytviken was a Norwegian whaling station. The rodents were preying upon bird eggs and putting seabirds that nest on South Georgia at risk for extinction.
Buildings, including a white wooden Norwegian Lutheran church, whale processing equipment, and whale oil vats are scattered about Grytviken. Docent-led tours and the museum tell of the whaling station’s history. You can buy a souvenir in the museum shop and mail a postcard from Grytviken’s post office.
Sir Ernest Shackleton's Grave at Grytviken, South Georgia, near Antarctica.
SIR ERNEST SHACKLETON’S GRAVE AT GRYTVIKEN, SOUTH GEORGIA (PHOTO CREDIT: TERESA OTTO)
8. You Can Toast Sir Ernest Shackleton
While at Grytviken, you can visit Sir Ernest Shackleton’s grave. He died on South Georgia in 1922 from a heart condition. Traditionally, visitors toast Shackleton with a glass of scotch whiskey, reserving just a bit to pour on his grave. It was his favorite drink.
A short, whitewashed picket fence encircles the cemetery filled with graves of the whaling station workers and sailors. Many succumbed to industrial accidents and many died from typhus. South Georgia’s magistrate William Barlas, was the last person buried here. He was swept into the sea by an avalanche in 1941.
9. You’ll Enjoy Days At Sea
With the extended journey to South Georgia, you’ll be able to relax and enjoy at-sea days. Whether you attend one of the many lectures given onboard, read a good book, watch for whales, dolphins, or seabirds, or play a card game with fellow passengers, a sea day is a chance to relax and enjoy a little downtime before your adventures begin in Antarctica.
Pro Tip: If you’re departing from South America, expeditions to South Georgia and Antarctica include several stops in the Falkland Islands. The best months to make this trip are November through February. To maximize your time on land during excursions, book your cruise on a ship carrying fewer than 100 guests.
Antarctica is a popular destination for travelers, and cruising is one of the favorite ways to visit the region:
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I Took A Solo Trip To Antarctica And It Was Amazing
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DESTINATIONS ANTARCTICA AND ARCTIC
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TERESA OTTO
VIEW FULL PROFILE
Teresa Otto, a retired pediatric anesthesiologist, now photographs and writes about her travels. When she’s not traveling the world, she serves as a waitress and housekeeper for two rescued cats and a dog in The Woodlands, Texas. Follow her travels on Instagram and on her personal website.
DESTINATIONSANTARCTICA AND ARCTIC
I Took A Solo Trip To Antarctica And It Was Amazing
DEC.14.2019
The sky was dark. A brisk wind and some waves. We paddled in our kayaks past Port Lockroy, the former British military base and now museum. Gentoo penguins waddled about. We launched our kayaks onto the fast ice. I was cold and tired. And very grateful. I had really done it: kayaked in Antarctica. Seen penguins feeding chicks, swimming, and arguing. Watched minke and humpback whales breach from 50 feet away. Stepped foot on the seventh continent.
Antarctica: My Dream Trip For Turning 50
Antarctica was my dream trip. Since I was 30, I had planned to go to Antarctica. I read every book on Antarctica. Saw every movie. Went to see penguins in the Galapagos and South Africa. Attended travel shows and grilled the tour company representatives. I was intent on going for my 50th.
Penguins in Antarctica.
SUE DAVIES / TRAVELFORLIFENOW.COM
Age 50 Comes And Goes
For my 50th birthday, Regina (my spouse) and I found ourselves on Easter Island and in the Atacama Desert instead. A spectacular trip — but not Antarctica. The next year it was Oaxaca, Mexico, followed by South Africa, Singapore, Taiwan, Hong Kong, Indonesia, Cuba, Sri Lanka, Budapest, Portugal, Spain, London, Greece, Italy, Denmark, Paris, and even Norway and the northern lights. And still we had not booked the Antarctica trip.
When I was 56, I finally asked, “Are we ever going to go to Antarctica?
Regina said, “I don’t want to go.”
I was heartbroken.
Then she said, “Why don’t you go without me?”
Over the past two decades, Regina and I had been to 45 countries together. She was the planner and paid attention to details. I was the dreamer and the finder of offbeat things to do.
I couldn’t imagine doing such a big trip on my own. But I couldn’t imagine giving up my dream.
Deciding To Go Solo To Antarctica
It was 11 p.m. in mid-November. Another Antarctic travel season had already started. There was the possibility of a last-minute deal. I did an online search and found a cruise with one single cabin and one kayaking space available. There was a huge discount since I was booking so late — and no single supplement. It seemed like the stars were aligned. I’d have to give up the idea of camping since that was already sold out, but I could kayak. I grabbed it immediately.
The writer on her solo trip to Antarctica.
SUE DAVIES / TRAVELFORLIFENOW.COM
Packing And Worrying
I worried about packing. How was I going to bring everything and stay within the weight limits? What was I going to do alone in Buenos Aires? Would I be safe at night? Would I have anyone to talk to? Eat dinner with? Would I actually make it to Antarctica?
Packing for Antarctica is a challenge. There is so much gear to bring — cameras (DSL, underwater, and GoPro), extra batteries, a tripod, base layers (several), gloves, hats, waterproof pants, and more. The baggage limits were 44 pounds for checked bags and 11 pounds for my carry on. My camera equipment alone weighed almost 11 pounds.
I carefully planned my packing. Weighed my bags about 40 times to make sure that I was under the weight limit.
I also worried about my flight and the possibility of bad weather. I elected to have a two-day cushion in Buenos Aires in case of a flight cancellation.
Two Days In Buenos Aires
In order to make sure that there was one organized outing in my first days in Buenos Aires, I booked a street art group tour. Street art is a passion of mine. And I thought that I would have someone to talk to at least for a few hours. It was a good plan.
The tour guide told me about the Asociacion Madres de Plaza de Mayo (Mothers of the Plaza de Mayo) demonstration the next day. The mothers have been protesting the disappearance of their children for more than 40 years. I set off for the plaza the next day. It was an honor to join their protest.
Meeting My First New Friends
The next morning it was time to take the bus from the hotel to the charter flight for Ushuaia, where we would embark on the cruise. The bus to the airport was buzzing with excitement. Everyone was talking to everyone. And we were all so excited. On the airplane, I immediately made friends with the people sitting in my row. A nurse from the Midwest traveling solo. A 70-year-old man traveling solo. A 30-something young woman also solo. It turned out that the boat had a lot of single cabins, so there was a whole contingent of us solo travelers.
There were 16 people on the kayaking excursions and we bonded as well. My worries about being lonely were gone.
Penguins in Antarctica.
SUE DAVIES / TRAVELFORLIFENOW.COM
Kayaking In The Southern Ocean
Kayaking in the Southern Ocean was beyond my dreams. Minke and humpback whales surfaced nearby. Penguins were everywhere — in front, behind, underneath, and on the side. We saw enormous penguin colonies with thousands of birds. On land, we watched penguins feeding chicks. And diving into the water. We heard and saw an iceberg calving (from a safe distance, of course).
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It was everything that I dreamed of and more. My next aspirational trips are to Greenland and the North Pole. Perhaps I’ll do those solo, too.
Tips For Going Solo To Antarctica
Antarctica is a great trip for solo travel. Make sure the boat that you are going on has doubles, triples and/or single cabins. This is an indication that there will be many other solo travelers.
Going to Antarctica is very expensive. You can save money by booking very early or very late. If you want to camp or kayak, booking early is better. I was very lucky to get a kayaking spot when I booked.
You can also save money by sharing a cabin — and that’s a good way to make a new friend if you are traveling solo.
Talk to everyone. I made friends with other solo travelers, married couples, and families. On my boat, everyone talked to everyone. This might not be the case on every cruise, but it is a possibility!
Penguins in Antarctica.
SUE DAVIES / TRAVELFORLIFENOW.COM
Go to the lectures about Antarctica, penguins, whales, photography, and other topics. You may find like-minded people there.
Get to know the cruise and expedition teams. On my trip, they were very friendly and happy to spend time talking about almost anything.
If you are concerned about global warming, you will learn a lot about it on the trip. Share all that you learned when you come back.
The last and most important tip: Go to Antarctica. It is an unforgettable experience and a privilege to be able to go.
7 Best Things About Visiting Antarctica
Adelie penguin standing on ice in Antarctica.
ADELIE PENGUIN (PHOTO CREDIT: TERESA OTTO)
DESTINATIONS ANTARCTICA AND ARCTIC
TERESA OTTO
SEP.27.2021
I never thought much about going to Antarctica. It wasn’t a bucket-list trip until I was watching a segment on photographing icebergs on a program called Tales by Light. I mentioned the program to a fellow photographer at work the next day. Call it destiny — her upcoming cruise to Antarctica had one remaining spot open and it was geared toward photographers. You just can’t ignore signs like that from the universe, so I plunked down a hefty deposit and secured my spot on the trip.
Before I dive into the best things about visiting Antarctica, let me give you a range of options for your tour. Cruises run the gamut, from ones that sail past Antarctica — sometimes referred to as sightseeing cruises — to ones referred to as expeditions. With expeditions, you disembark and set foot on the Antarctica Peninsula (weather permitting), and depending on the itinerary, you may explore the Falkland Islands, South Georgia, and the South Shetland Islands as you make your way to Antarctica.
If you have limited time or are incapacitated by seasickness, consider a combination flight/cruise expedition. You’ll fly to King George Island and cruise around Antarctica’s much calmer waters before flying back to South America.
Different price points, length of trips, ports of call, activities (helicopter tours, kayaking, stand up paddle boarding, camping overnight on Antarctica, etc.), and amenities aboard the ship mean there are a number of cruises to choose from. Since I was jumping on board an already planned trip, all these big decisions had already been made. The 18-day cruise I took with Zegrahm Expeditions was roundtrip from Ushuaia, Argentina. It stopped at the Falkland Islands, South Georgia, the South Shetland Islands, and Antarctica Peninsula. The icebreaker ship carried fewer than 100 guests.
Here are the seven best things I experienced visiting Antarctica:
Three zodiac boats returning from an expedition on the Atlantic Ocean.
ZODIAC BOATS IN THE ATLANTIC OCEAN (PHOTO CREDIT: TERESA OTTO)
1. It’s An Adventure
Unlike a cruise with set ports of call and a schedule to keep, a cruise to Antarctica doesn’t necessarily operate that way. That’s not to say cruise lines don’t have a schedule. They do. It’s just that Mother Nature, a high surf, an entertaining pod of whales, or even the appearance of a double rainbow can change plans.
A cruise of this nature is more of an adventure because of where you’re headed and because of the relatively small number of people. You really can linger if a pod of humpback whales is showing off their tail flukes and breaching close enough for you to see their barnacles.
A cruise to Antarctica is all about experiential travel — soaking in each moment. You may never go back and tour operators know that. They want you to have the fullest experience possible while you’re there.
Close up of the head of a king penguin with black, gray, gold and white feathers and a black and orange beak in Antarctica.
KING PENGUIN (PHOTO CREDIT: TERESA OTTO)
2. The Wildlife
Wildlife is plentiful. It’s hard to imagine life thriving in this inhospitable environment, but it does. Six types of seals and sea lions, seven species of penguins, eight species of whales (with several subtypes of killer whales), and about 40 species of birds other than penguins live on or around Antarctica for at least part of the year.
Many of Antarctica’s animals are migratory, traveling thousands of miles to breed or follow a source of food over the course of a year. Nearly 100 million birds migrate to Antarctica to breed in the spring. Humpback and blue whales migrate to Antarctica for a summer full of feeding on krill — a shrimp-like animal that is less than three inches long.
Antarctica cruises run from the end of October to March. If you have a specific animal you want to see, you’ll want to schedule your expedition around the animal’s stay in South Georgia or Antarctica.
Crabeater seals perched up on some ice in Antarctica.
CRABEATER SEALS (PHOTO CREDIT: TERESA OTTO)
Generally speaking, penguins begin to hatch and elephant seals court on South Georgia in November. Whales migrate in December and seal pups lounge on South Georgia’s beaches in December. In January, the penguin chicks sport very fluffy feathers and stay in their nurseries (called creches), and whales and seals are back in the area to feed. February is best for whale watching and fur seals and their pups are plentiful. If you’re interested in seeing the nesting wandering albatross on South Georgia, February is the month to do so. By March, the penguin chicks are grown and adult penguins are molting — it isn’t the most photogenic month to visit and the temperature is dropping.
If you’re most interested in seeing king penguins, you can see chicks the entire season, especially on South Georgia. King penguins have a 14-month breeding cycle so you’ll see chicks and adolescents with brown down rather than feathers throughout the season. King penguins live in massive colonies (100,000 or more birds).
Pro Tip: Emperor penguins that stand about four feet tall, live farther inland on Antarctica. If seeing these majestic birds is a must, you’ll need to cruise inland via the Weddell Sea or fly in to see them. Very rarely, an emperor may be spotted on the peninsula.
Turquoise and baby blue iceberg floating in Cierva Cove, Antarctica.
CIERVA COVE ICEBERG (PHOTO CREDIT: TERESA OTTO)
3. The Ice
The photographer on the Tales by Light program I watched was most enthusiastic about the ice. Once I saw the colors, textures, and different formations of sea ice and witnessed icebergs calve and roll, I understood why ice would be a highlight.
There are more than a dozen types of sea ice from icebergs to flat pancake ice. As your cruise ship enters icy water, it will slow to a snail’s pace with the crew on the lookout not only for icebergs whose major mass lies below the surface of the water but growlers that are nearly covered with water, difficult to spot, very hard, and extremely hazardous.
Ice is a photographer’s friend in Antarctica because of the variety of colors, shapes, sizes, and textures. Ice can be turquoise blue to steel gray. Many icebergs have windows or keyholes in them adding interest. I took as many photos of ice as I did wildlife.
If your greatest interest lies in photographing ice and the landscapes, plan to travel in January or February since there will be soft light at dawn and dusk. On the summer solstice in December, the sun is visible for 24 hours.
Pro Tip: With the snow, ice, and nonstop sunshine, consider using a polarizing filter for your landscape photography.
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4. Stepping Foot On The 7th Continent
As I mentioned, this trip is an adventure with no guarantees. Expedition leaders make every attempt to have you set foot on the 7th continent – typically on Antarctica Peninsula.
Pro Tip: According to regulations, set forth by the International Association of Antarctica Tour Operators, no more than 100 people can be onshore at a time. Keep this in mind when you’re researching cruise ships. If you’re traveling with more than 100 passengers, your time onshore will be reduced.
Elephant Island, Antarctica.
ELEPHANT ISLAND (PHOTO CREDIT: TERESA OTTO)
5. You’ll Marvel At The Tenacity Of Polar Explorers
You’re likely to have a historian on board to give you lectures on the trials and triumphs of the polar explorers. As you learn about their efforts to reach the South Pole without any of the advantages we have today, you’ll gain an appreciation for their achievements — whether they succeeded or failed in their attempts.
You’ll cruise by and perhaps land on Elephant Island — a small, rocky, inhabitable island where Sir Ernest Shackleford’s men stayed for more than four months awaiting their rescue after their ship was crushed by ice in the Weddell Sea.
If your cruise takes you to the former whaling station at Grytviken on South Georgia, you’ll see Shackleton’s grave.
6. You’ll Learn A Lot
When the ship is underway, whether, for several hours or several days (between South America and Antarctica), the expedition leaders will give lectures on everything from photography, to bird and whale watching, to geology. Expedition leaders have varied backgrounds and are often expert naturalists or wildlife biologists.
As an added bonus, you’ll dine with the expedition leaders and any guest lecturers on board. It gives you a chance to learn even more about Antarctica or their fields of study.
Ship docked at Paradise Bay, Antarctica.
PARADISE BAY (PHOTO CREDIT: TERESA OTTO)
7. You Can Take A Polar Plunge
A few hardy souls earned certificates for jumping into Paradise Bay’s freezing water during the polar plunge. The crew attached safety straps to pluck them out of the water if needed and the ship’s doctor attended. If you’re brave enough to take the dip, you deserve the certificate and the bragging rights.
Pro Tip: This is truly a trip of a lifetime. As a photographer, I tend to get caught up taking pictures. Put your camera away once in a while and soak up the beauty, listen to the ice sizzle and crackle, watch the antics of the penguins, and feel the ripples under your zodiac boat after a whale breaches. Savor the moments.
Arctic and Antarctic travel is an incredible experience, but takes careful planning:
Visiting The Arctic Circle Responsibly: 7 Things To Know
How To Travel To Antarctica
I Took A Solo Trip To Antarctica And It Was Amazing
DESTINATIONS ANTARCTICA AND ARCTIC
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TERESA OTTO
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Teresa Otto, a retired pediatric anesthesiologist, now photographs and writes about her travels. When she’s not traveling the world, she serves as a waitress and housekeeper for two rescued cats and a dog in The Woodlands, Texas. Follow her travels on Instagram and on her personal website.
FUR SEAL ON SOUTH GEORGIA (PHOTO CREDIT: TERESA OTTO)
TERESA OTTO
SEP.17.2021
This is truly a trip of a lifetime. And while it isn’t as rigorous as a mountaineering expedition or a sailing vacation in which you’re part of the crew, it isn’t your typical cruise with endless buffets and umbrella drinks by the deck pool.
A cruise to Antarctica is an expedition, an exploration of a remote, untamed continent miles away from civilization. And miles away from a hospital. There are many adages about planning ahead. I first learned the six “P’s” in the Army: “Prior planning prevents p-ss poor performance.” It was a favorite in the operating room, too, where it served to remind the physicians, nurses, and technicians entrusted with caring for patients to check and double-check that everything was in order, and we were ready for the day.
For your upcoming cruise to Antarctica, here are six tips — six “P’s” to help prepare you for your trip of a lifetime.
1. Pay A Visit To Your Healthcare Provider
Before you book a cruise to Antarctica, make an honest assessment of your health. Whether you find you have some medical problems that need to be addressed or you’re perfectly healthy, be sure to visit your healthcare provider before your trip.
If you have chronic illnesses such as heart disease, high blood pressure, a history of strokes, blood clots, diabetes, asthma, sleep apnea, or have had recent surgery, a visit with your primary care provider as soon as you book your trip will give you time to medically get yourself in the best shape possible.
Even if you’re healthy, pay a visit to your provider for medication refills and to discuss your need for medication to prevent or lessen seasickness.
Four South American fur seals on a gray rock. A young seal is in the foreground and Ushuaia Argentina is in the background. Shallow depth of field.
TERESA OTTO
There is a healthcare provider on board the ship to evaluate and treat minor illnesses (gastrointestinal upset, colds, mild infections, etc.) and emergencies like a fur seal bite. But you’ll need to be flown to a hospital in Argentina, Chile, or home if your illness or injury is serious or can’t be treated onboard.
Pro Tip: Depending on the tour operator, your healthcare provider may need to verify and sign a medical history form for the ship’s doctor to review several months before departure.
Group of tourists in blue jackets on a zodiac boat touring around icebergs in Antarctica.
TERESA OTTO
2. Plan For Seasickness
Most expeditions traverse the Drake Passage between Antarctica and South America. This is the roughest stretch of water in the world. I had never had motion sickness before, so I was confident I’d be okay on the 2-day transit across the Drake Passage.
I was very wrong.
It’s much better to prevent seasickness than to try to treat it after the fact. There are both medications and acupressure devices to help prevent or minimize the symptoms. The wise passengers on the cruise wore scopolamine patches before we entered the Drake Passage. This is a prescription-only medication you need to bring with you.
Alternatively, talk to your doctor about over-the-counter Dramamine or Marezine. Your healthcare provider will make sure there are no interactions with medications you already take.
The acupressure wrist bands that apply pressure to the “nausea” point receive mixed reviews in studies. They have no side effects so they seem to be a good adjunct to medication.
If you opt not to take preventative medication (personally, I think this is a huge mistake), ginger lozenges or ginger ale can soothe an upset stomach — provided they stay in your stomach long enough to do anything.
A ship anchored in Paradise Bay Antarctica, photographed from a Zodiak boat. Snow covered mountains surround the bay and small iceberg are seen in the foreground.
TERESA OTTO
3. Practice Balance-Improving Exercises
Most days include excursions on Zodiac boats whether you are viewing icebergs, whales, and seals from the boat or making a landing on South Georgia or Antarctica Peninsula. The crew assists you on and off the Zodiacs, but you’ll make their jobs easier if you have the lower body strength and balance to climb in and out of a moving ship to a bouncing inflatable and vice versa. The greater test of strength and balance occurs on shore landings as you battle the surf when climbing in and getting out of the Zodiac boat.
Trails on South Georgia are unpaved. If you’re interested in seeing more remote penguin colonies or retracing part of Sir Ernest Shackleton’s trek, you may walk several miles on a moderately strenuous hike over hilly terrain. Bring walking poles if needed for balance.
Walking around the ship’s deck or passageways in rough seas requires good balance as well. The ship is equipped with handrails throughout.
Start exercises to improve leg strength and balance as soon as you book your trip. The Mayo Clinic provides an at-home exercise regimen to improve your balance. Joining a tai chi group is particularly helpful as this discipline’s main goal is improving balance in a non-strenuous way.
Pro Tip: If you’re carrying heavy camera gear, hand it to the crew on the Zodiac so you have both hands free. Accept their help getting on and off the ship and Zodiac no matter how good your balance is.
Hiking on Antarctica
TERESA OTTO
4. Pack Appropriately
Having waterproof clothing for cold weather is so important, many tour operators provide both muck boots and jackets. You’ll need to bring waterproof pants to wear over your clothes. Layering is key — choose waterproof outerwear for your Zodiac excursion that you can remove or unzip if it gets warm while you’re hiking in South Georgia.
Depending on how acclimatized you are to cold weather, bring thinner or heavier thermal underwear, shirts, sweaters, or a fleece jacket, pants, sweatpants, or leggings. The tour operator I went with provided boots for us to use, but if you wear an unusual size jacket or shoe or wear orthotics, check to make sure they can accommodate you. If you bring your own, boots need to be slip-on and tall since you’ll be getting out of the Zodiac into shallow water and walking up to the beach.
Check with your tour operator about dinner wear. Cruises to Antarctica tend to be casual without the need for formal dinner wear.
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Bring your prescription and over-the-counter medication in your carry-on bag, with plenty to last the entire trip. If you use a CPAP machine, bring it and the supplies you’ll need with you. You should be able to buy distilled water and any personal items you’ve forgotten in Ushuaia before you embark, time permitting.
The ship I traveled on did not have a gift shop, sundry shop, or laundry services on board. If you need to hand wash your clothes, bring eco-friendly detergent.
Pro Tip: If your cruise departs from Argentina, the weight limit per piece of luggage on the domestic flight you take from Buenos Aires to Ushuaia is about 50 pounds.
The bow of the ship with wood and metal railing and wooden deck in fairly calm seas with fog ahead. Visibility is limited.
TERESA OTTO
5. Purchase Medical Evacuation Insurance
Most tour operators require medical evacuation insurance. It may be included in general trip insurance, but you’ll need to read the contract carefully to determine what exclusions the coverage has. Alternatively, you can purchase stand-alone medical evacuation insurance.
Evacuation from an Antarctic cruise back to Argentina, Chile, or home will make a serious dent in your savings. Cruise experts, Expedition Trips, recommend $200,000 due to Antarctica’s remote location.
Trip cancellation and interruption insurance are separate insurances (although you can add a medical evacuation rider to it) that reimburse the cost of the trip due to covered causes. Read the contract carefully as many causes are excluded.
Pro Tip: Trip cancellation plans require you purchase the insurance within 10 to 21 days of booking the trip for pre-existing medical conditions to be covered.
Author bundled up in waterproof and cold weather gear on a Zodiac boat.
TERESA OTTO
6. Plan Early For Your Unique Circumstances
Planning early to accommodate your unique circumstances is key. I’ve read about a wheelchair-bound woman who cruised to Antarctica and made it onto the continent. All of that took prior planning. That said, reach out to the tour operator you’d like to use before you book your trip if you have limited mobility. Most ships have elevators and several ADA-compliant rooms.
A trip to Antarctica is a feast for the senses, so visual or hearing impairments shouldn’t stop you from traveling here. For the visually impaired who are assisted by a guide dog, dogs were banned in Antarctica in 1992 after being used as sled dogs since the early days of exploration. I don’t believe you can make an exception for a guide dog, although I can’t guarantee that’s the case.
For those with severe food allergies, you should be able to avoid a particular food but there will be a risk of contamination because small ships have one kitchen and can’t accommodate preparing food in a gluten, dairy, or nut-free kitchen for example. A passenger with a severe gluten allergy brought all of her own food for the Antarctica cruise I took.
Pro Tip: Proof of a completed series of COVID-19 vaccines and a recent negative test are required by most tour operators. If you are unvaccinated for personal or medical reasons (allergy to a component of the vaccine, for example), contact the tour company about your eligibility to take the cruise before you book your trip.
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TERESA OTTO
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Teresa Otto, a retired pediatric anesthesiologist, now photographs and writes about her travels. When she’s not traveling the world, she serves as a waitress and housekeeper for two rescued cats and a dog in The Woodlands, Texas. Follow her travels on Instagram and on her personal website.
DESTINATIONSANTARCTICA AND ARCTIC
9 Reasons Why This Tiny Island Should Be Part Of Your Antarctica Adventure
King penguins standing along a river on South Georgia, near Antarctica.
KING PENGUINS STANDING ALONG A RIVER ON SOUTH GEORGIA (PHOTO CREDIT: TERESA OTTO)
DESTINATIONS ANTARCTICA AND ARCTIC
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With cruises departing South America and heading directly to Antarctica, the trip time is shortened but you miss the tiny island of South Georgia. With the even shorter version — flying to King George Island off the Antarctica Peninsula and beginning your expedition from there — you also miss South Georgia. But including South Georgia in your itinerary offers wildlife viewing and on-land experiences that make your expedition to the 7th continent a trip filled with adventure, discovery, and once-in-a-lifetime experiences.
Before we look at the nine reasons why South Georgia should be part of your expedition to Antarctica, let me give you a little bit of information about what to consider when you research your cruise.
In keeping with the 1959 Antarctic Treaty, the continent is shared by countries around the world. Its primary purpose is to provide a place of collaborative scientific research. And 29 of the 54 countries that signed the treaty have research bases in Antarctica.
Tourism to Antarctica is regulated in order to lessen the impact travelers have on the continent. The expedition you choose should be part of the International Association of Antarctic Tour Operators (IAATO). IAATO limits the number of people on any given landing to 100. They also regulate the landings and lengths of the visits so the land and wildlife are not adversely impacted. You’re ferried from ship to shore on a Zodiac boat. If the ship you choose for your expedition has fewer than 100 guests, you’ll be able to participate in every shore landing offered.
Here are the reasons why the tiny island of South Georgia should be part of your Antarctic adventure.
1. You’ll Have Boots On The Ground
Except for typically one trek on the Antarctic Peninsula, the majority of excursions to destinations in Antarctica involve sightseeing from Zodiac boats. With South Georgia, you’ll be exploring on foot, with easy hikes and up-close experiences with wildlife (curious penguins walk up to you).
Short hikes take you to nesting areas or viewing platforms from where you’ll see stunning panoramas of the beaches and the Scotia Sea — a part of the Southern Ocean.
Black-browed albatross chicks on mud nests on South Georgia, near Antarctica.
BLACK-BROWED ALBATROSS CHICKS ON MUD NESTS ON SOUTH GEORGIA (PHOTO CREDIT: TERESA OTTO)
2. You’ll See Albatrosses Take Off
Several types of albatrosses inhabit South Georgia and the small islands that surround it. While viewing wandering albatross from the ship’s deck, the birds look big but not enormous. You’ll get an up-close view of them on Prion Island, just off of South Georgia’s north shore. The wandering albatross’s wingspan is the largest of any living bird on the planet, reaching 11 feet. To get airborne, they have to get a running start. Once they are airborne, they can glide for several hours without flapping their wings. Individual albatrosses have been tracked and found to cover 12,000 miles over the course of the year. They breed on South Georgia and other subantarctic islands beginning each November.
Black-browed albatrosses, with about 7.5-foot wingspans, are found on South Georgia. A huge colony of 400,000 breeding pairs nest on the Falkland Islands but a very respectable colony of 70,000 breeding pairs lives on South Georgia so you’ll see them on your visit. Dove gray downy chicks hatch in their mud nests in late December and early January.
These are just two species of albatrosses on South Georgia. You’re likely to spot more albatross species between South America and Antarctica. You’ll also see petrels, skua, cormorants, kelp gulls, Antarctic terns, and Antarctic prions.
Pro Tip: Albatrosses are considered threatened and near-threatened depending on the species, due to fishing and pollution. To find out more about conservation efforts, visit the Agreement on Albatross and Petrel Conservation’s website.
3. You Might Spot Macaroni Penguins
In 18th century England, “Macaroni” referred to high society, sophisticated young men who toured Europe and adopted a taste for Italian pasta and fine European clothing, including wigs and feathered caps. The verse, “Yankee Doodle came to town riding on a pony. He stuck a feather in his hat and called it macaroni,” was a way the British Army put down the less well-dressed colonials during the Revolutionary War.
Upon seeing penguins on the Falkland Islands with a flamboyant splash of yellow and orange feathers on their heads, English sailors named them Macaronis. Their habitat extends from South America to the Antarctic Peninsula.
The world’s largest population lives on South Georgia but colonies are remote. Your best chance of seeing them is when they enter the water in search of krill — the shrimp-like crustaceans that make the Macaroni’s feathers orange.
A pair of King penguins in a penguin colony in South Georgia near Antarctica.
A PAIR OF KING PENGUINS IN A PENGUIN COLONY IN SOUTH GEORGIA (PHOTO CREDIT: TERESA OTTO)
4. You’ll Experience The Chaos Of A King Penguin Colony
South Georgia is home to some of the largest King penguin colonies in the world, too. A short walk from your Zodiac landing on Salisbury Plain or St. Andrews Bay gets you to King penguin colonies with 100,000 plus breeding pairs that are trumpeting, courting, waddling, and, in the case of the juveniles — whistling — to their parents. The noise is deafening, and the smell of guano is quite strong, nevertheless, the experience is unmatched.
IAATO requires visitors to stay at least five meters (16 feet) away from any wildlife. Curious juveniles, called oakum boys, have brown downy feathers and can be seen throughout the season, as King penguins breed every 14 months. You will also see molting adult penguins that are land-bound and hungry until they replace their feathers and return to the sea to feed.
Along with King penguins, South Georgia is also home to Magellanic, Gentoo, and Chinstrap penguins.
Pro Tip: Sit or stand quietly when you are near a colony. Curious penguins are likely to approach and break the five-meter rule.
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Young elephant seals at Gold Harbour, South Georgia Island, near Antarctica.
YOUNG ELEPHANT SEALS AT GOLD HARBOUR (PHOTO CREDIT: TERESA OTTO)
5. You’ll Marvel At Massive Elephant Seals
Gold Harbour, named for the color of the beach’s golden mountain backdrop at sunrise and sunset, is home to King penguins, fur seals, and massive elephant seals. Adult elephant seal males weigh up to 8,800 pounds and dwarf the females that weigh from 900 to 2,000 pounds. Juvenile male elephant seals practice sparring on the beach, otherwise, the entire lot of elephant seals seem content to sunbathe while they’re on land.
6. You Can Retrace Sir Ernest Shackleton’s Trek
No expedition to Antarctica would be complete without learning about polar explorers that attempted and succeeded at reaching the South Pole. Sir Ernest Shackleton’s attempt failed but he was heralded as a hero. After his ship, the Endurance was crushed by ice in Antarctica’s Weddell Sea, Shackleton and his men made their way to Elephant Island. Shackleton went with a small group of his men to find a ship to get his men home.
Shackleton sailed on a small boat to South Georgia and hiked over snowy, icy, rugged terrain to reach Stromness whaling station in 1916. He returned to rescue all of his men on Elephant Island about 4 months later.
Depending on weather conditions, you can retrace the final part of Shackleton’s trek to Stromness. Stromness became a ship repair yard after whaling ended. Humans left in 1961. Now it’s fur seal city.
Norwegian Lutheran Church, or Norwegian Anglican Church, at Grytviken on South Georgia, near Antarctica.
NORWEGIAN LUTHERAN CHURCH AT GRYTVIKEN (PHOTO CREDIT: TERESA OTTO)
7. You Can Send A Postcard
South Georgia Heritage Trust is based in Grytviken and serves to restore and protect South Georgia. They’ve eradicated rodents that were introduced when Grytviken was a Norwegian whaling station. The rodents were preying upon bird eggs and putting seabirds that nest on South Georgia at risk for extinction.
Buildings, including a white wooden Norwegian Lutheran church, whale processing equipment, and whale oil vats are scattered about Grytviken. Docent-led tours and the museum tell of the whaling station’s history. You can buy a souvenir in the museum shop and mail a postcard from Grytviken’s post office.
Sir Ernest Shackleton's Grave at Grytviken, South Georgia, near Antarctica.
SIR ERNEST SHACKLETON’S GRAVE AT GRYTVIKEN, SOUTH GEORGIA (PHOTO CREDIT: TERESA OTTO)
8. You Can Toast Sir Ernest Shackleton
While at Grytviken, you can visit Sir Ernest Shackleton’s grave. He died on South Georgia in 1922 from a heart condition. Traditionally, visitors toast Shackleton with a glass of scotch whiskey, reserving just a bit to pour on his grave. It was his favorite drink.
A short, whitewashed picket fence encircles the cemetery filled with graves of the whaling station workers and sailors. Many succumbed to industrial accidents and many died from typhus. South Georgia’s magistrate William Barlas, was the last person buried here. He was swept into the sea by an avalanche in 1941.
9. You’ll Enjoy Days At Sea
With the extended journey to South Georgia, you’ll be able to relax and enjoy at-sea days. Whether you attend one of the many lectures given onboard, read a good book, watch for whales, dolphins, or seabirds, or play a card game with fellow passengers, a sea day is a chance to relax and enjoy a little downtime before your adventures begin in Antarctica.
Pro Tip: If you’re departing from South America, expeditions to South Georgia and Antarctica include several stops in the Falkland Islands. The best months to make this trip are November through February. To maximize your time on land during excursions, book your cruise on a ship carrying fewer than 100 guests.
Antarctica is a popular destination for travelers, and cruising is one of the favorite ways to visit the region:
How To Travel To Antarctica
I Took A Solo Trip To Antarctica And It Was Amazing
Experience Antarctica’s 2021 Solar Eclipse Onboard This Exclusive Cruise
DESTINATIONS ANTARCTICA AND ARCTIC
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TERESA OTTO
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Teresa Otto, a retired pediatric anesthesiologist, now photographs and writes about her travels. When she’s not traveling the world, she serves as a waitress and housekeeper for two rescued cats and a dog in The Woodlands, Texas. Follow her travels on Instagram and on her personal website.
DESTINATIONSANTARCTICA AND ARCTIC
I Took A Solo Trip To Antarctica And It Was Amazing
DEC.14.2019
The sky was dark. A brisk wind and some waves. We paddled in our kayaks past Port Lockroy, the former British military base and now museum. Gentoo penguins waddled about. We launched our kayaks onto the fast ice. I was cold and tired. And very grateful. I had really done it: kayaked in Antarctica. Seen penguins feeding chicks, swimming, and arguing. Watched minke and humpback whales breach from 50 feet away. Stepped foot on the seventh continent.
Antarctica: My Dream Trip For Turning 50
Antarctica was my dream trip. Since I was 30, I had planned to go to Antarctica. I read every book on Antarctica. Saw every movie. Went to see penguins in the Galapagos and South Africa. Attended travel shows and grilled the tour company representatives. I was intent on going for my 50th.
Penguins in Antarctica.
SUE DAVIES / TRAVELFORLIFENOW.COM
Age 50 Comes And Goes
For my 50th birthday, Regina (my spouse) and I found ourselves on Easter Island and in the Atacama Desert instead. A spectacular trip — but not Antarctica. The next year it was Oaxaca, Mexico, followed by South Africa, Singapore, Taiwan, Hong Kong, Indonesia, Cuba, Sri Lanka, Budapest, Portugal, Spain, London, Greece, Italy, Denmark, Paris, and even Norway and the northern lights. And still we had not booked the Antarctica trip.
When I was 56, I finally asked, “Are we ever going to go to Antarctica?
Regina said, “I don’t want to go.”
I was heartbroken.
Then she said, “Why don’t you go without me?”
Over the past two decades, Regina and I had been to 45 countries together. She was the planner and paid attention to details. I was the dreamer and the finder of offbeat things to do.
I couldn’t imagine doing such a big trip on my own. But I couldn’t imagine giving up my dream.
Deciding To Go Solo To Antarctica
It was 11 p.m. in mid-November. Another Antarctic travel season had already started. There was the possibility of a last-minute deal. I did an online search and found a cruise with one single cabin and one kayaking space available. There was a huge discount since I was booking so late — and no single supplement. It seemed like the stars were aligned. I’d have to give up the idea of camping since that was already sold out, but I could kayak. I grabbed it immediately.
The writer on her solo trip to Antarctica.
SUE DAVIES / TRAVELFORLIFENOW.COM
Packing And Worrying
I worried about packing. How was I going to bring everything and stay within the weight limits? What was I going to do alone in Buenos Aires? Would I be safe at night? Would I have anyone to talk to? Eat dinner with? Would I actually make it to Antarctica?
Packing for Antarctica is a challenge. There is so much gear to bring — cameras (DSL, underwater, and GoPro), extra batteries, a tripod, base layers (several), gloves, hats, waterproof pants, and more. The baggage limits were 44 pounds for checked bags and 11 pounds for my carry on. My camera equipment alone weighed almost 11 pounds.
I carefully planned my packing. Weighed my bags about 40 times to make sure that I was under the weight limit.
I also worried about my flight and the possibility of bad weather. I elected to have a two-day cushion in Buenos Aires in case of a flight cancellation.
Two Days In Buenos Aires
In order to make sure that there was one organized outing in my first days in Buenos Aires, I booked a street art group tour. Street art is a passion of mine. And I thought that I would have someone to talk to at least for a few hours. It was a good plan.
The tour guide told me about the Asociacion Madres de Plaza de Mayo (Mothers of the Plaza de Mayo) demonstration the next day. The mothers have been protesting the disappearance of their children for more than 40 years. I set off for the plaza the next day. It was an honor to join their protest.
Meeting My First New Friends
The next morning it was time to take the bus from the hotel to the charter flight for Ushuaia, where we would embark on the cruise. The bus to the airport was buzzing with excitement. Everyone was talking to everyone. And we were all so excited. On the airplane, I immediately made friends with the people sitting in my row. A nurse from the Midwest traveling solo. A 70-year-old man traveling solo. A 30-something young woman also solo. It turned out that the boat had a lot of single cabins, so there was a whole contingent of us solo travelers.
There were 16 people on the kayaking excursions and we bonded as well. My worries about being lonely were gone.
Penguins in Antarctica.
SUE DAVIES / TRAVELFORLIFENOW.COM
Kayaking In The Southern Ocean
Kayaking in the Southern Ocean was beyond my dreams. Minke and humpback whales surfaced nearby. Penguins were everywhere — in front, behind, underneath, and on the side. We saw enormous penguin colonies with thousands of birds. On land, we watched penguins feeding chicks. And diving into the water. We heard and saw an iceberg calving (from a safe distance, of course).
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It was everything that I dreamed of and more. My next aspirational trips are to Greenland and the North Pole. Perhaps I’ll do those solo, too.
Tips For Going Solo To Antarctica
Antarctica is a great trip for solo travel. Make sure the boat that you are going on has doubles, triples and/or single cabins. This is an indication that there will be many other solo travelers.
Going to Antarctica is very expensive. You can save money by booking very early or very late. If you want to camp or kayak, booking early is better. I was very lucky to get a kayaking spot when I booked.
You can also save money by sharing a cabin — and that’s a good way to make a new friend if you are traveling solo.
Talk to everyone. I made friends with other solo travelers, married couples, and families. On my boat, everyone talked to everyone. This might not be the case on every cruise, but it is a possibility!
Penguins in Antarctica.
SUE DAVIES / TRAVELFORLIFENOW.COM
Go to the lectures about Antarctica, penguins, whales, photography, and other topics. You may find like-minded people there.
Get to know the cruise and expedition teams. On my trip, they were very friendly and happy to spend time talking about almost anything.
If you are concerned about global warming, you will learn a lot about it on the trip. Share all that you learned when you come back.
The last and most important tip: Go to Antarctica. It is an unforgettable experience and a privilege to be able to go.